bagels

(makes 8 good-size)

The night before, mix together:

1 1/2 c. beaten-down ripe whole-wheat sourdough starter
3/4 c. warm water
1 Tablespoon maple syrup
2 1/2 c. white flour
1 Tablespoon kosher salt

Knead 10 minutes. Divide into 8 even lumps, roll into balls, and rest 5 minutes. Roll into 6-inch straight (untapered) ropes and form rings, moistening one end, overlapping 2 inches, and sealing tightly. Place rings on cornmeal-dusted sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Next morning, preheat the oven to 450 degrees F, with a baking stone if you have one, taking the bagel dough out of the refrigerator as soon as you start preheating. Boil 4 inches of water in a big saucepan. When the oven is ready, drop the bagels 4 at a time into the boiling water, stir for a minute or so, turning and submerging with a slotted spoon, then bring them out to drain on a wire rack and boil the next 4. Pour a few toppings in saucers or shallow bowls-- sesame, caraway, poppy. Press the boiled bagels top-down into the seeds, which will stick to the damp surface. When all the bagels are out of the water bath and topped as you like, slide them onto the baking stone (or put them on an oiled or parchment-papered pan) and bake at least 15 minutes, until nice and brown.